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Matters of taste: Remembering D-Day

"Over successive D-Day commemorations I have devised 'Le Grand Repas du Débarquement'—the Great Meal of the Invasion—a homage that grows a little more ornate each year"

Rows of white crosses in the Normandy American cemetary. © US Army

When Staff Sergeant Laurie Weeden noiselessly piloted his glider down to capture Ranville Bridge in the opening minutes of D-Day, he had only a 48-hour ration pack to sustain him. Canned ham, vitamin-fortified chocolate, beef tea cubes, “the sort of condensed food, desiccated, you had to pour water over.” He could not remember any particular taste. “There was tea of course. Being British, you had…

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