"Every glance and glimpse, every shutter blink is more gracefully deliquescent than the last"by Wendell Steavenson / March 26, 2015 / Leave a comment
Published in April 2015 issue of Prospect Magazine
Instead I walk and walk and walk. Every glance and glimpse, every shutter blink is more gracefully deliquescent than the last. A sliding gondola, a gargoyle with one eye, a little shop with an old man marbling paper with floating oily inks, a bobbing market boat overflowing with five kinds of artichoke, immigrant vendors selling selfie sticks on the Rialto Bridge. My mind was lulled by my own metronomic footsteps; touristy palazzo, quiet backwater… ah, I am lost again!
I walked five, six hours a day. I walked and I ate. When I was tired I took advantage of the traditional respite of the Venetian bàcari, wine bars that sell cicchetti, snacks that often take the form of two-bite toasts with something delicious on top. My favourite was Cantinone già Schiavi, run by three brothers and their indomitable mother, a champion cicchetti maker with certificates on the wall to prove it. I would point to two or three: smoked herring, pumpkin and ricotta, salmon and mascarpone, egg with mushrooms and truffle, shrimp and artichoke, brie topped with nettle purée. And whatever the ti…