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As Israel celebrates its 50th anniversary, the middle east peace process seems to be stalled. Four years after the signing of the Oslo accords, Sarah Helm returns to the West Bank and Gaza Strip to see how facts on the ground have affected behaviour and expectations among the Palestinians themselves

By Sarah Helm   April 1998

I first came to the West Bank Jewish settlement of Kiryat Arba, on the edge of Hebron, in February 1994, to cover the funeral of Baruch Goldstein, the settler who gunned down 29 Muslim worshippers in the Ibrahimi Mosque inside the Tomb of the Patriarchs. It was a stormy day. The crowds surged in the slopping mud as loudspeakers blared through the fog to announce the arrival of the cort?ge from Jerusalem.

Today, nearly four years later, there is once again a chill wind blowing in Kiryat Arba. In the picnic area and landscaped shrine built by Jewish settlers to…

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