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The chef who built an empire

One man above all came to embody the notion of what it is to be a French chef—so I went to his restaurant

By Wendell Steavenson   May 2018

Paul Bocuse

Paul Bocuse died in January at the age of 91 above his family’s restaurant, L’Auberge du Pont de Collonges, outside Lyon, in the same room in which he had been born.

“I am lost when I leave,” he once said, “when I spend a night in another bed, to find my bearings, I have to fall asleep with the river Saône situated on my left.” Because Bocuse; the chef who held three Michelin stars for more than 50…

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