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Matters of taste

Can a goy make proper chicken soup? For a dish so steeped in legend, the recipe is amazingly simple. The big problem is finding the right kind of chicken

By Alex Renton   October 2008

A treat during this year’s dull Edinburgh festival was hearing Steven Berkoff ramble on Jewishness and food. Drawing on his memoir My Life in Food (ACDC Publishing), Berkoff made a case for Jews being closer to their food than most races, and more influenced by what they eat than any other. Interesting stuff, although we weren’t entirely convinced by Berkoff’s claim that the design of the Large Hadron Collider was deliberately modelled by the Jewish physicists at Cern on the shape of the bagel.

Berkoff told the audience about his east London childhood: the tastes, the smells, the people and…

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