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Letter from the Gulf: New Orleans oyster culture

By Sonia Van Gilder Cooke  

"Aw, shucks": Keith at work

The Gulf gusher has finally stopped, but until authentic Louisiana oysters return to Felix’s Oyster Bar in New Orleans, things won’t be back to normal. At the moment, Felix’s head shucker Keith Chancley is serving oysters from out of town.

“Florida: small,” he says, picking up a green oyster, prying it open, and throwing the sliver of pale flesh into a bucket. He picks up another. “If you get ’em from Texas they sandy; they got a sandy grit…

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