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Matters of taste: dim sum

Dim sum is fast becoming the new sushi—but, as I discovered, there’s a reason why even the Chinese never cook it at home

By Fiona Sims   February 2011

Paul Vong makes it look so easy. He deftly crimps a tiny parcel of chopped vegetables, placing it onto a bamboo steamer. But then he does make 2,000 dumplings a day, I tell myself, as I tear yet another one, spilling the contents onto my shoe. Vong is a chef at Royal China, one of London’s top Chinese restaurants, and he has gamely offered to show me how dim sum is made. Now I understand why we don’t see it on television cookery shows.

Making dim sum may be hard, but it is becoming one of our most popular foods,…

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