Latest Issue

Matters of taste: dim sum

Dim sum is fast becoming the new sushi—but, as I discovered, there’s a reason why even the Chinese never cook it at home

By Fiona Sims   February 2011

Paul Vong makes it look so easy. He deftly crimps a tiny parcel of chopped vegetables, placing it onto a bamboo steamer. But then he does make 2,000 dumplings a day, I tell myself, as I tear yet another one, spilling the contents onto my shoe. Vong is a chef at Royal China, one of London’s top Chinese restaurants, and he has gamely offered to show me how dim sum is made. Now I understand why we don’t see it on television cookery shows.

Making dim sum may be hard, but it is becoming one of our most popular foods,…

Register today to continue reading

You’ve hit your limit of three articles in the last 30 days. To get seven more, simply enter your email address below.

You’ll also receive our free e-book Prospect’s Top Thinkers 2020 and our newsletter with the best new writing on politics, economics, literature and the arts.

Prospect may process your personal information for our legitimate business purposes, to provide you with newsletters, subscription offers and other relevant information.

Click here to learn more about these purposes and how we use your data. You will be able to opt-out of further contact on the next page and in all our communications.

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.

We want to hear what you think about this article. Submit a letter to

More From Prospect