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Andoni Luis Aduriz: “the worst thing to provoke is indifference”

The experimental San Sebastian chef on eating and memory

First there was a perfectly empty white circle. The table was not laid with any cutlery, nor cluttering glassware. An opaque dish was placed in front of us containing a little ball of grass. We picked it up. It felt tender and squishy in our fingertips and when we put it in our mouths the fronds of sprouted teff tickled our lips as our tongues found their way into a hazelnut mud centre. It was like eating—no; it was more like exploring—a miniature earth, a new world.

Lunch at Mugaritz, a restaurant in the hills of the Spanish Basque country…

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