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Matters of taste

The public's appetite for organic produce has created a huge incentive for fraud. It's time to regulate the industry properly. Plus the pre-poached egg

By Alex Renton   September 2006

Who regulates the organic industry?

I’m feeling bullied by the flood of organic labels. I’m not wholly convinced of the health benefits, and while traditionally grown foods, especially vegetables, can produce Proustian taste thrills, there’s a trade-off in high price and dubious quality. But you need a hard heart to reach for the standard bananas when your darling toddler could be ingesting organic (why did it take the supermarkets so long to realise that the way to nail us was to put organic and standard side-by-side, rather than hiding it with soya milk in the aisle reserved for vegans…

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