Magazine
Latest Issue

Matters of taste

Could Heston Blumenthal's restaurant The Fat Duck really be the best in the world? I went to lunch there with my mother, who usually hates fancy food

A couple of months ago, the unthinkable happened: a British restaurant was voted best in the world. Months after obtaining three Michelin stars, Heston Blumenthal’s Fat Duck in Bray became the third restaurant—after Ferran Adrià’s El Bulli and Thomas Keller’s French Laundry—to top Restaurant magazine’s annual “best 50” poll. On a recent Wednesday lunchtime, I visited the Fat Duck with my mother, a culinary traditionalist who generally despises fancy food. What, I wondered, would she make of Blumenthal’s most famous inventions: snail porridge and bacon-and-eggs ice cream?

The Fat Duck is housed in a cottage-like building on a narrow street…

Register today to continue reading

You’ve hit your limit of three articles in the last 30 days. To get seven more, simply enter your email address below.

You’ll also receive our free e-book Prospect’s Top Thinkers 2020 and our newsletter with the best new writing on politics, economics, literature and the arts.

Prospect may process your personal information for our legitimate business purposes, to provide you with newsletters, subscription offers and other relevant information.

Click here to learn more about these purposes and how we use your data. You will be able to opt-out of further contact on the next page and in all our communications.

We want to hear what you think about this article. Submit a letter to letters@prospect-magazine.co.uk

More From Prospect