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Matters of taste

What will the credit crunch do for our eating habits? Sweep away some of the mega-chain restaurants; help us rediscover the joys of mince and cheap cuts; create a new new cuisine

By Alex Renton   January 2009

Do hard times make for better food? The British, we’re told, ended the second world war healthier than they started it, not least because the government directed the food industry to provide maximum nourishment from raw materials. Refining flour until it was white was forbidden. But in eastern Europe, cooking has yet to recover from the 1940s—one of communism’s terrible flaws was, of course, its lack of a cuisine. There’s still only one Michelin star in the former Soviet bloc, in Prague (it’s for Allegro, an Italian joint).

So far Britain’s new recession has been good for food, if not…

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