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Matters of taste

Finding out whether the fish in restaurants is "sustainable" is harder than you'd think. Plus, it's a good time to start foraging—I found wild garlic, and cooked up a storm

By Alex Renton   May 2008

Is your fish sustainable?

I’ve been asking every restaurant that I’ve visited recently where they get their fish. It’s a bore for whoever I’m eating with, but the results are interesting. Even at the restaurants that boast their devotion to “sustainable” sourcing, the waiters usually have little idea what the provenance of the fish is. At one Edinburgh restaurant I was told, with some pride, that the scallops were from the west coast and definitely not diver-caught—though this is in fact the only environmentally friendly option.

Monkfish is a particular problem. Chefs love this gloriously ugly bottom-feeder for the…

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