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Matters of taste: why do you cook?

"Chez Henri was so small that there was no room for tables inside—four tables were set up in the alley"

Henri cooking razor clams at his restaurant. © Laurent Van Der Dtokt

I went to Perpignan in the first week of September for the annual photojournalism festival. On the first morning I went to get eggs for breakfast. Perpignan is close to the Spanish border; Catalan and French, poor, ungentrified, overlapped with waves of exiles and immigrants—Jews escaping the Moors, gypsies settled since the Middle Ages, communists from the Spanish Civil War, Arabs from the Maghreb. They live…

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