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Matters of taste: The Sardinista revolution

"Tinned fish is transforming itself from a cupboard staple into an upmarket appetiser"

St Anthony of Padua (1195-1231) was actually born in Lisbon. He was a disciple of St Francis of Assisi and is famous for his sermon to the fishes, who, according to the legend, “all kept their heads out of the water and seemed to be looking attentively on St Anthony’s face.” On his saint day in June all of Portugal celebrates by grilling sardines in the streets. I am fond of grilled sardines, but when I was in Portugal in February every Portuguese I…

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