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Matters of taste

Homemade taramasalata is nothing like the vile shop-bought stuff. So when I came across smoked wild cod's roe the other day, my conscience held me up for just a second

By Alex Renton   May 2007

Until the 17th century, most carrots were purple. They could also be grown in colours ranging from white to green, but the orange carrot was unknown until—according to legend—some enterprising Dutch market gardeners decided to breed them as a patriotic gesture. Why the carrots of Dutch Protestantism took over the world has never been satisfactorily explained, like so much in the history of food colouring. I’ve never, for example, heard an adequate account of why chickens in the US produce white eggs, while Britain gets brown ones. And when it comes to strange colour evolutions in foodstuffs, what about taramasalata?

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