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France profonde

Choc-chip pizza in Provence

By Tim King   November 2003

I can tell they’re expecting the worst, invited for a meal chez l’anglais (“should we bring our own food, just to be safe?”). By the meal’s end, however, their faces show surprise, and real pleasure. “But where did you learn…?” I serve nothing fancy, just a few staples of French cooking: goug?, sweetbreads, slow-cooking daubes, and all out of a book-by an Englishwoman! Elizabeth David kept alive in England a tradition of French cooking which the French themselves have now lost. Steak and chips is voted the nation’s favourite dish, followed by couscous. Pizza is not far behind and for…

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