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Matters of taste: Armenia’s culinary heritage

"Cooking, kitchen and hearth were touchstones: mothers, grandmothers and aunts were the guardians of their heritage"

Kibbeh, minced meat with bulgur or rice

Before Syrians had to flee, Iraqis fled. Before the Iraqis fled, Palestinians had to. A hundred years ago, Armenians were driven out of their Ottoman homelands by the young Turks. Waves of refugees have washed into Lebanon; many have stayed.

In May, in the Burj Hammud neighbourhood of Beirut where the Armenians settled, Armenian flags fluttered from every building and graffiti stencils of a gobbling turkey head were sprayed on the walls. It is a century…

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