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In a Paris market, fresh produce brings home the cost of convenience

As consumers, we increasingly ask about the provenance of our meat and fish. Less so about our fruit and veg

Apples are harvested in an orchard. But do we even really care where our fruit and veg come from?

I got up at 3am on a wet December morning in Paris, and walked down the deserted streets to meet Marwan Karouia who was going to take me to Rungis, the largest wholesale market for fresh food in the world. Marwan’s family hails from a village in the south of Tunisia, and runs my local greengrocer. “You will recognise our truck by all the graffiti,” his father Fathi told me.

Marwan…

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