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Eating for England

The industrial food economy has meant lower costs and more choice for consumers. But it has also been slowly throttling the artisan food culture. No longer

By Hugh Raven   December 1998

Food symbolises the body of Christ. It is an aid to seduction. Eating some foods, like the fugu of Japanese cuisine, can be exquisite suicide, as its poison numbs the throat. Bad food makes us sick, and fatty foods thicken our blood. Anorexics die from fear of getting plump, while millions succumb to obesity. Policies for growing food waste ?20 for every British household each week. Food causes conflict: from rivalries in the produce tent at village f?tes, to armed confrontation over access to famine relief. Bananas, tuna fish, hormone-laced milk and beef on the bone, transgenic soya and irradiated…

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