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As the days lengthen, what are the best wines to hunt down?

By Barry Smith   April 2011

Spring is a busy time for winemakers. In the cellars of Bordeaux and Burgundy they will finish bottling the 2009 vintage and ship it to our shores, making room for the next vintage to be transferred to barrel. For those who can’t wait to sample these vintages, there are the delicate wines of the Hautes-Côtes in Burgundy, a superb example of which is the 2009 Hautes-Côtes de Beaune, Clos de la Perrière, from Sébastien Magnien, a young winemaker in Meursault.

In the Loire, too, there are wines of delicacy and vigour to delight our awakening senses. In the village of…

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