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Sicily: where the “kitchen of the poor” means everyone eats well

Welcome to the capital of deep-fried leftovers

Palermo: where being poor does not mean you have to eat poorly

Palermo: where being poor does not mean you have to eat poorly

In April I went to Palermo. It was my first time in the city and I walked and walked, exploring the streets and alleys that opened into unexpected piazzas overhung with baroque façades, wondering and marvelling at the disregarded, casual, astonishing beauty of the stones and pillars and cupolae and marble nymphs cavorting in the fountains.

Sunlight slanted through flags of washing strung along the…

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