There is a reflex that aligns certain drinks with specific times of the year. Pimm’s is so associated with summer, for example, that its makers brought out a “winter cup” version. There are also flavour-based correlations between seasons and spirits. Some smell like spring, filled with scents of green apples, cut grass and flowers. Others are distillations of winter, smelling of raisins, clove-studded oranges, mulled spices, Christmas cake, earth and wreathing smoke.
Their use changes as well. While spring-like spirits are aperitifs, winter examples are best after the meal. The energy of spring, the externalised aromas of the world waking…
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