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Matters of taste

There are many culinary myths: some inexplicable, some daft. Where, for example, does the name of the dish "chop suey"—unknown in China—come from?

By Alex Renton   November 2007

How to roast a leg of lamb

A friend was getting a leg of lamb ready for the oven when his wife asked him why he always cuts an inch or so from either end of it. Because that’s how you do it, he said. I don’t, she said. Well, my mother does, he replied, and she cooks some of the best roast lamb in the home counties.

Mocked, my friend rang his mother: she said she trimmed the lamb that way because that’s what her mother, another celebrated lamb roaster, did. He sounded out his older relations until…

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