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Matters of taste

What's wrong with chardonnay?

By Kathleen Burk   June 2003

There is nothing wrong with chardonnay. It is full-bodied, easy to drink, and available everywhere. What more could one desire? Well, how about diversity?

Chardonnay is a grape variety which has become a brand. Indeed, for many the name is synonymous with white wine (Bridget Jones). Fundamentally, however, it is the white grape of Burgundy, the grape, for example, of bourgogne blanc, of chablis and of any wine with Montrachet in its name. It produces some of the greatest white wines in the world, wines which are complex and delicious. But it also produces some of the most boring and,…

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