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What’s the significance of a two-dollar wine winning an open tasting competition to find California’s best Chardonnay?

Not a lot, according to many critics. As they point out (in places like the lively comments section of the Napa Valley Register,) several of California’s finest whites weren’t entered into the competition, while subsequent tastings by other experts have failed to replicate the endorsement, and have even brought the accusation that the tasted batch was of a rather different standard to the bottles of “Two Buck Chuck” usually sold to consumers. The controversy, however, has resonances well beyond the world of West…

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