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Matters of taste: Steadfast Georgia

Georgians have kept their culture despite millennia of invasion and occupation by overlapping empires

By Wendell Steavenson   March 2015

© Gavin Quirke/Getty Images

France taught me to cook, but Georgia taught me to eat. I lived in Tbilisi for two years at the end of the last century. It was during the dark years of President Eduard Shevardnadze’s post-Soviet era: electricity down to four hours a day; no heat in the winter. Economic flatline. The country fell back to subsistence. Georgia had no intensive farming, no food processing industry and no supermarkets. There was no money for chemical pesticides or packaging; bunches of herbs were…

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