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Matters of taste

Fighting the mafia through food

By Simon Wroe   February 2012

Volunteers at Libera Terra’s Centopassi winemaking co-operative in Sicily

The Sicilian village of San Giuseppe Jato does not look like a war zone. It dozes in the hills above Palermo, amid dusty olive groves and rolling fields of wheat. On long afternoons the local carabinieri leave the caretakers in charge of the police station and the dogs in charge of the empty streets.

This is mafia country, although mob violence is rare. Yet San Giuseppe Jato is also the headquarters of Libera Terra, an agricultural organisation at the vanguard of Italy’s anti-mafia movement. Many of the area’s crops and vineyards…

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