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Matters of taste: Collective cooking

"This was cutting edge and something I had never seen"

By Wendell Steavenson   May 2017

©Wendell Steavenson

Tarek Alameddine is a big friendly guy from a small village in Lebanon’s Chouf mountains. When he graduated from cookery school he didn’t want to cook boring formal French-style food. He applied twice to Noma in Copenhagen (then the number one restaurant in the world), before he got accepted. Noma’s chef, the diminutive Macedonian-Danish genius Rene Redzepi who invented New Nordic cuisine, told him, “a Lebanese! We never had one of those before!”

Alameddine mastered tweezering and the exacting art of plating dishes like “ants on a…

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