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Meet the Syrian chef who refused to be a refugee

What the French call gastronomy—quality ingredients in season—is like our daily food in Syria

On 20th June, World Refugee Day, I sat with Mohammad El Khaldy, a Syrian chef, outside in the sunshine in Paris. He told me his story and I wrote it down in my notebook: 

“Left Damascus early 2012, Lebanese wife, three small sons, Bekaa Valley, problems with the Lebanese authorities, went to Cairo (without his family), started a restaurant just off Tahir Square.

“Problem with visa permissions, post Sisi takeover Egyptians revoked the Syrian visa…

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