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Wine: Abruzzo’s hidden gem

It's time to rethink Italy's reputation for fine wine

Trebbiano and Montepulciano d’Abruzzo have a reputation as simple wines, readily available on the supermarket shelf—the latter inky and  purple, soft black fruit with hints of spice; rich in alcohol and highly suitable for tomato-based fare like pizza. In the case of the whites, Trebbiano produces thin, floral and slightly acidic wines. The French use it for making Cognac.

For years this has been my view of the wines of Abruzzo. They served to popularise Italian wines in the mass market but did nothing to enhance Italy’s reputation for fine wine. However, it is possible, now and then, to stumble…

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