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The story of Sicily’s people is in its food

From Aztec chocolate to soup kitchens for migrants, in Sicily, innovation is traditional

By Wendell Steavenson   March 2018

Catania’s seafront is bordered by a railway. Iron railings, tracks, and overhead cables form a black fence against the sea and sky. I could just make out the tall masts of sailboats in the marina. The port where rescued migrants are brought in is locked behind warehouses and gates. Behind the train station the Catholic charity Caritas has a soup kitchen serving about 400 people a day. Half are poor Sicilians, half Africans. Dinner on one cold January evening…

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