Even in tough economic times, the prices of the world’s most sought-after bottles have remained stubbornly highby Barry Smith / May 22, 2014 / Leave a comment
Published in June 2014 issue of Prospect Magazine
How many of the world’s truly outstanding bottles of wine will never be tasted? Too many of them. They become trophy wines, valued not for the purity of their fruit and the development of their tannins, but for their ability to deliver a guaranteed return for an investor. Even in tough economic times, the prices of the world’s most sought-after bottles have remained stubbornly high. As the financial crisis led to a decline in demand for fine wine in the west, Russia, China and India became important regions for collecting and trading.
It is not just collectors and speculators who have put these vessels of desire beyond the reach of ordinary wine lovers. High-end restaurants adorn their lists with trophy wines that serve more as status symbols than real choices—although, of course, some people have deep pockets. A city trader once told me that he’d had a wonderful wine at his favourite restaurant. What was the wine, I asked. He thought about the wine list for a moment, then said, “Bottom right.”
How are trophy wines created? Paradoxically, it is the desires and appreciation of wine lovers that help to make legendary bottles—such as the 1990 Chateau Margaux and 1961 Chateau Haut Brion—so sought after. The higher critics rate them and the more we long to taste them, the more they will be snapped up by investors and planted in dark cellars to grow in value. Sadly, many of these bottles will never be opened. They become too valuable to drink and will be repeatedly traded until they are well past their best; a heart-breaking outcome for those who laboured lovingly on the vines and in the cellar.
Bordeaux wines are sold every year “en primeur”—an age-old system where wine merchants buy the wine before it is bottled, tasting it unfinished from the barrel. In the past, the idea was to secure an early allocation of the best wines at a reduced price. However, the system is now close to collapse as current opening prices are unsustainable and buyi…