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Matters of taste: perfect poulet

The most important factor for a good tasting chicken? Their age.

Roasted Bresse chicken on bed of leeks with tarragon ©Photocuisine RM/Alamy Stock Photo

Spring has arrived in the French countryside. Neon bright leaf buds sunlit against dark grey thunderheads, tender green grass growing like a lush carpet, fields striped with yellow rape. In April, weeks of rain had swollen the Saône river, a tributary of the Rhône. We drove across the bridge at Chalon-sur-Saône, into the flat alluvial plain of Bresse. Hamlets of low timber-and-brick farmhouses huddled…

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