Tuscany's Chinatown is shrugging off the slump, but integration remains a challengeby Anna Blundy / March 14, 2017 / Leave a comment
Prato, a small Tuscan town 16 miles from Florence, is famous for the Lippi frescoes in the Cathedral of Santo Stefano, and for its ancient textile business, documented by the 14th-century merchant Francesco Datini, whose palazzo can still be visited. Or, rather, that is what Prato used to be famous for.
For Prato is now famous mainly for its Chinatown, known as Santo Beijing and stretching from the stone gate down bustling Via Pistoiese to the edge of the old city. There is none of the air of decay felt in most Italian provincial towns: shop closures, apathy and an ageing population. Here the shop signs are in Chinese and there are nail and hair salons, Wenzhou-style restaurants (most Pratese Chinese originate from Wenzhou in Zhejiang province), Chinese medicine shops and everything else Prato’s 45,000-odd ethnic Chinese might need.
Compared to Chinatowns abroad this may be nothing much. But in this town of around 200,000 in relatively monocultural Italy, still a staunchly Catholic country obsessed with its own food and traditions, it is striking. Especially since the Chinese shops and restaurants are always open, eschewing the four-hour lunch break and three days off a week plus long holiday closures that native businesses are lovingly known for. See a Chinese family by the river in the summer, a predominantly Chinese-looking orchestra in a Tuscan schools competition, a group of shiatsu massage ladies on the beach at Forte dei Marmi—they’ll be from Prato. There are Chinese-language magazines and radio stations and angsty blogs from young Italians born to Chinese parents, called Luca, Fabiano, Chiara and Cristina, and seeking an identity in what is often an unhospitable country.
Many local Italians think of the Chinese as lawbreakers, consider their restaurants dirty and complain about their spitting and littering. I once told a Pratese friend that I had no car insurance and he laughed and said, “You’re like the Chinese! I’ve actually seen them running away from accidents!”
A large number of the Chinese immigrants to Prato, who have been coming over since the late 1980s, are in Italy illegally. They came chiefly to work in the textile industry, producing clothes for the Chinese market labelled “Made in Italy.” Most of the factories, abandoned by the collapsing domestic textile industry, are now leased by Italians to the Chinese. Recently, the…