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Green new meal: the unpalatable truth about veganism and climate change

Climate change has made "plant-based" eating all the rage. But the reality is that every choice to consume that we make has drawbacks

Can veganism really save us? Illustration: Simon Golob/Rex Shutterstock/Prospect composite

In November 1944, more than five years into a devastating war whose tall shadow had long breached the nation’s pantries thanks to rationing, half a dozen men and women gathered in Leicester, united by their belief that it was morally imperative to abstain from much of the food their countryfolk craved: not just meat but dairy products, too. As their group’s first secretary—a 34-year-old pacifist woodwork teacher named Donald Watson—wrote soon after, they were “not easily scared by criticism,…

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