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Essays Magazine commerce food

The battle over bread

The humble loaf has become a fashionable badge of identity. But do we really know our sliced white from our sourdough?

By Dan Hancox  
July 15, 2019
August/September 2019

Sourdough has become more and more popular—but is it really better than a slice of white? Photo: Prospect composite

At the Brick House Sourdough Bakery and Bar in Peckham Rye in south London, an 850g loaf of artisanal multigrain sourdough will set you back £5. Brick House loaves are handmade with organic flour, slow-fermented, naturally leavened and stone-baked over a period of around 48 hours in their converted east Dulwich warehouse. A former World Bread Award winner (in the coveted best baguette category), the baker also offers “sourdough…

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Dan Hancox

Dan Hancox writes about culture, politics, food and cities. His latest book is “Inner City Pressure: The Story of Grime” (William Collins)

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