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Matters of taste: How to make the perfect risotto

"He turned the rice in the hot oil. It made a noise like pebbles on a sea shore, which became sharper against the metal pan."

By Wendell Steavenson  

"A good risotto comes once in a decade"

A good risotto comes once in a decade. Not the rice wodge that people make at dinner parties, but the creamy soft unctuous moreish blanketty comforty yum. This incarnation, wave-like, lapping plate and palate, I have found to be as mythical as souffléd potatoes, pressed duck or fraises du bois (all of these—once encountered, never forgotten, never found again).As I mentioned in my Prospect column last month, I was lucky enough to find a perfect risotto in Venice…

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