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Did British food really get better?

WILL SKIDELSKY VS PETER GORDON

By William Skidelsky   November 2002

Dear Peter

27th September 2002

In your introduction to The Sugar Club Cookbook, you write eloquently about the food you ate in New Zealand as a child. You describe helping your mother make an apple pie at the age of four, and your grandmother sending you to the beach to collect seaweed for flavouring the “soups and stews she made from cheap joints.” Such memories have stayed with you.

Many chefs have similarly vivid early memories of food. This is no coincidence. A chef must grasp intuitively what tastes good and what does not, which flavours go together and…

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