The new New Worldby Barry Smith / September 21, 2011 / Leave a comment
Published in October 2011 issue of Prospect Magazine
The spectacular Bordeaux vintages of 2009 and 2010 are being snapped up by billionaires from emerging economies. These wines, purchased as investments, may never be drunk. Many will be traded until they are past their peak. Occasionally, they will be served as a sign of conspicuous wealth. But that means if you want to taste the finest in Bordeaux, Burgundy or Barolo you may have to cosy up to an oligarch.
Luckily, this passion for wine is not restricted to consuming: the BRIC countries are also producing. Russia has a long wine history, and Georgia is thought by many to be the place where wine-making began (others say Iran.) More surprising is the birth of wine industries in Brazil, India and China and already there is reason for optimism. As the old adage has it: if you want to make a small fortune in wine you must first be prepared to lose a large one, and these countries have willing investors. They also have vast territories to search for the perfect match between soil and grape variety.
Brazil is looking for a grape to make its own, as New Zealand did with Sauvignon Blanc. The aim is to find something unexpected, but experiments with the Tannat grape have not met with success. However, in the south of Brazil, with the help of French wine makers, producers have been making remarkable sparkling wines with fresh and complex flavours. One such wine is the high altitude Cave Geisse Nature Terroir 2006 from Pinto Bandeira with its aromas of dried fruits and crisp lemon finish. Equally promising are the wines from Santa Caterina; in particular, the Monte Agudo Terroir de Altitudes Chardonnay 2008 which shows Burgundian flavours of white peach and hazelnuts.
India has some surprisingly good wines along with many bad. The best come from the Sula vineyards, northeast of Mumbai, which produce a range of wines including Sauvignon Blanc, Chenin Blanc and Shiraz. The best of these is Dindori Shiraz, whose aromas of basil, nutty taste and buttery texture perfectly…