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Dinner parties create anxieties: who to invite, what to serve and, if you’re a guest, what to bring. For many people, the wine is the last thing to consider, and thus the rules for food and wine pairing. It’s often said that the convention of not serving red wine with fish is outdated. But that is only half right. The young tannins of sturdy reds react with white fish to give the wine an unpleasant metallic taste. Yet a less tannic, or more mature red, combined with a meatier fish like salmon or tuna works very well.

And whites can…

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