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“No-shows” are jeopardising restaurants—and demonstrate how alienated from one another we’ve become

Stricken restaurants are now considering the unthinkable: taking deposits upon booking. But there's another solution that harkens back to a pre-digital age

By Jonathan Nunn   October 2020

During a busy service in 1988, a motorcycle pulled up outside Gordon Ramsay’s Michelin-starred restaurant Aubergine. The rider ran into the foyer, snatched a big black book tallying six months’ worth of reservations, and sped off. This audacious theft became the talk of the food world. The finger was pointed at Ramsay’s former mentor Marco Pierre White, whom Ramsay suspected of trying to depose him. But in the…

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