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The battle to revolutionise food

For nearly all of human history, the main concern was to cultivate enough food to feed everyone—but now we face a new crucial problem

When Stéphane Quere took over his parents’ farm in Brittany 16 years ago, he didn’t have any particular desire to turn it organic. He had grown up seeing his parents labour to grow broccoli and shallots and cauliflower on their 30 hectares, helping out from the age of seven, working through the summer holidays as a teenager. His main thought was: I have to find a different way to farm, one that isn’t so hard.

Stéphane’s dilemma is perhaps the fundamental question of all life since the dawn of time: how can we get enough food to sustain ourselves? In the Anthropocene era, it is a newly urgent question. Climate change is upon us and our dominion on Earth has become the planet’s most determining environmental factor. Agriculture and the food industry account for a quarter of global greenhouse emissions. How do we produce food and eat in…

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