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Detained at the border, I vowed to eat a banana in Jerusalem

You can find true happiness, wrote Mujir al-Din, the 15th-century historian buried on the Mount of Olives, “eating a banana in the shade of the Dome of the Rock”

By Sameer Rahim   February 2018

The Dome of the Rock at sunrise. Photo: Nabeelah Jaffer

The bus driver taking us from Amman towards Jerusalem was playing Fairuz’s lament for the Holy Land’s “city of prayers.” I must have heard the Lebanese diva’s song a dozen times while in Jordan. It was a week since US President Donald Trump declared Jerusalem to be Israel’s capital, and tensions were simmering in the country that lost the eastern half of the city in 1967. Approaching the King Hussein/Allenby Bridge, the current border between Jordan and Israel/Palestinian Territories,…

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