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In the heel of Italy, a small revolution in wine is taking place: a shift from mass market to small production. The flight to quality has already begun in Puglia. The brilliant light, the olive trees, the white stone and the iron-rich soil have always given this fertile plain an abundance of grapes. At times, perhaps, too great an abundance, for Puglia was known as a region that produced large volumes of wine, very little of which spoke with any distinction of what the soils could do. There were exceptions, like the dry rosé wines: the first to be bottled…

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