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As winter approaches, and barbecues give way to bonfires, it’s time to start eating warming stews and drinking hearty reds. These will be full-bodied wines made from thick-skinned grapes, such as syrah, carignan and cabernet sauvignon, which produce firm and succulent tannins. Wines from these grapes are hearty in a further sense too: the tannins extracted from their skins are rich in resveratrol, an anti-oxidant that helps prevent heart disease, and much else besides, we’re told. Researchers have discovered greater quantities of this miraculous compound in fermented than unfermented grape juice, which is good news for us all.

Disputes abound,…

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