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Wendell Steavenson: Rome’s happy, cosy winter food

By Wendell Steavenson  

Winter weekend in Rome. Little (very tall) Brother came to keep me company. I rented an apartment in Trastevere and a moped and when it rained we took shelter in a corner cafe and had a shot of expresso chased with a dose of engine-oil grappa. By the time we had paid, the sun had come out and everything sparkled wet and the ruins were all pink and cheery. Of course the Eternal City is eternally beautiful. I don’t think the food ever changes either.

Roman cuisine is a style of cooking not so much honed as worn-in by generations.…

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