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Matters of taste: Tuscan trout

Roast trout and warm potato salad make the perfect spring supper if you live in Tuscany—and even if you don’t

By Anna Blundy   March 2011

Looking at the river as it runs through central Bagni di Lucca—the part of Tuscany where my house is—it is hard to imagine any trout flourishing in there. When the river is low there are tangles of torn plastic bags in the trees; when it’s high the water rushes through town in a terrifying tsunami, all brown and churning. Less than ideal conditions for a growing troutlet.

Yet the fish siphoned off into Ennio’s gloomy green tanks appear to be in the peak of good health. Until, obviously, he knocks them dead with his murderous stick—which is actually called a…

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