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Matters of taste: Comfort in ramen

“A good bowl of ramen has no beginning or middle or end. When you eat it everything comes together.”

By Wendell Steavenson   May 2014

Many years ago, during a Tbilisi winter when there was no heat and the electricity was down to four hours a day, I devised a heartwarming dish that was so accidentally good (I made it out of leftovers) that it has since become my signature.

In a bowl place a scoop of mashed potato and scoop of cooked spinach, pour over chicken broth, add, if the fridge provides, finely minced garlic, spring onions, chopped parsley, a dollop of sour cream and a shimmering lid of olive oil. The broth should be as lip scalding as Jewish grandmother’s chicken soup, as…

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