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Should we try and reimagine the Christmas feast?

"The splash and effort is made on Christmas Eve, so that on Christmas day we won't cook anything at all"

By Wendell Steavenson   January 2016

A cracker laid on the table for Christmas dinner. ©Amelia Wells

It is that time of year when food columnists think, let’s update tradition. Seduced by the fake-frosted vitrines of fancy delis and traiteurs, everything shiny and red and abundant, glistering, gilded, twinkling with fairy lights. We are blessed with multicultural profusion. Oh look! French marrons glacés and truffle layered brie and Napoleon mandarin liqueur. Italian panettone piled up in their festive dome-shaped boxes, tricolore Christmas tree-shaped pasta, American sugar rush madness: green striped candy canes, red and green…

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