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Matter of taste

Let them eat crabs

By Simon Wroe   May 2013

Consider the jellied eel: pale, tripe-like, quivering with the suggestion it might taste as bad as it looks. A dish that divides opinion, yet one close to London’s heart. For centuries the city looked to the Thames for food: eels, cheap and plentiful, were what it found.

Not so today. The European eel is critically endangered, with an estimated population one-fifth of what it was in the mid-20th century. European Union directives have restricted eel fishing on the Thames to a few licensed operators.

But the river, never short of ideas, has another stock for our consideration: the Chinese mitten…

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