Magazine
Latest Issue

Matter of taste

Let them eat crabs

By Simon Wroe   May 2013

Consider the jellied eel: pale, tripe-like, quivering with the suggestion it might taste as bad as it looks. A dish that divides opinion, yet one close to London’s heart. For centuries the city looked to the Thames for food: eels, cheap and plentiful, were what it found.

Not so today. The European eel is critically endangered, with an estimated population one-fifth of what it was in the mid-20th century. European Union directives have restricted eel fishing on the Thames to a few licensed operators.

But the river, never short of ideas, has another stock for our consideration: the Chinese mitten…

Register today to continue reading

You’ve hit your limit of three articles in the last 30 days. To get seven more, simply enter your email address below.

You’ll also receive our free e-book Prospect’s Top Thinkers 2020 and our newsletter with the best new writing on politics, economics, literature and the arts.

Prospect may process your personal information for our legitimate business purposes, to provide you with newsletters, subscription offers and other relevant information.

Click here to learn more about these purposes and how we use your data. You will be able to opt-out of further contact on the next page and in all our communications.

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.

We want to hear what you think about this article. Submit a letter to letters@prospect-magazine.co.uk

More From Prospect